Batik Fabric Production - The Old Is New Again

Introduction If you are passionate about textiles with exotic color and texture the chances are good you have a special love for batiks. It's easy to be captivated by these stunning color-saturated marvels. While there always seems to be a place in a batik lover's stash for a new "Bali" few of us know much about the fascinating, time-honored processes that are used to make our batik fabrics. In order to discover where the batiks in our local fabric store come from, let's take a virtual trip into an Indonesian batik factory.
Batik making is an ancient art for embellishing cloth through the use of wax, (or other media that creates resist), and dyes. While batik fabric is produced in India, China, Thailand and in several African nations, it is most renowned in Indonesia and Malaysia. In these areas there are two basic processes used to produce batik fabric; Batik Tulis (hand drawn batik) and Batik Cap (stamped batik). This article will focus on the production of stamped batik.
Stamping Stamping, involves the application of molten wax to cloth with the use of a metal or wooden stamp called a cap, (Pronounced Chap). The cap is a cookie cutter-like devise that is created in the image of the batik motif that it intends to produce. The stamping process begins with the preparation of the cloth.
Cloth Preparation and Application of Base Colors Raw fabric must first be prepared before it can undergo batik production. The prep involves the removal of impurities and starch. Often this is done by bleaching the fabric before it arrives at the batik factory. If the base cloth is heavily starched it may be washed to improve the penetration of the dye to those parts of the cloth left un-waxed. After fabric prep it's often necessary to apply base colors to the fabric before the wax is applied. The base colors fill the surface area inside of the motif positions that are eventually shaped by the wax resist. In situations when the base color must be applied the fabric is often placed on the factory floor.
The Application of wax After the base colors have been applied to the prepped fabric, it's time to apply the wax. Usually the fabric is draped over a padded table which provides the necessary give to the pressure of the stamp. Before it is melted, the wax is in the form of blocks. The wax blocks are placed in an open pan called a Wajan that sits on top of a small barbecue-like stove. The wax is applied to the fabric after it is melted to the right consistency. The batik artisan dips the stamp into the pan until its surface is covered with molten wax and applies the stamp to the cloth. The artisan must carefully dovetail the wax impression into the ones that have already been created to avoid unsightly gaps in the repeat of the motif.
Dyeing After the wax has been applied, the cloth is ready to be over-dyed. The dyes are color matched by staff members and than applied in large cement baths. Areas covered by wax will resist the dyes and will create the shapes of the desired motifs. The dyeing process is repeated several times depending upon the colors and complexity of the design. Occasionally a final application of black or other dark color is made to emphasize the design elements of the pattern.
Removal of the Wax After the cloth has been rinsed and dried, the wax is removed entirely by dipping in hot water. The wax is often saved and re-used. The cloth is then washed with a mild detergent, rinsed to remove excess dye and hung in the sun to dry. Creases may be removed by an electric press. The fabric is later rolled on tubes and packed for export.
New Frontiers While Indonesian batik-making has been ongoing for centuries it is undergoing a period of dynamic change owing to the needs and creativities of home sewing enthusiasts around the world. Old batik techniques are given new applications and new base fabrics expand the potential uses of batik. Western fabric companies now offer 108"-wide batik backing, batik flannel, silk batik and many new thematic groups of stamped batiks and hand-dyed batik. All-inall it's an exciting time of renewal for this ancient fabric making process.

Batik Prints

Batik has its origins in medieval Egypt but have currently seen Asian countries as its key manufacturing centers. Within Indonesia, only members of the royal family utilized Batik art work in the old days since they presumed the styles had distinctive significance for their wearers. Despite the fact that the craft originated form Egypt, it has traveled on to other regions of the globe such as Asia and Africa. This has provided each specific batik piece with a unique and distinctive pattern or design as each region draws heavily on local religion and culture.

Batik prints are not just used in various types of clothing such as shirts, scarves and dresses but it is also used for furniture, pictures along with wall hangings. Batik is usually a incredibly labor demanding procedure that produces gorgeous and distinctive patterns on permeable materials such as cotton as well as silk. At the start, cloth, normally white or cream in color is cleaned in boiling water to remove all traces of many other materials such as starch before the procedure commences.

The preferred pattern is traced on the chosen material while areas of the material that are not be colored are lightly brushed with paraffin (melted) and also wax (Beeswax etc) to avoid them becoming blemished. This is done using an ordinary brush or sometimes, a traditional canting pen. The temperature of the wax is controlled at a specific temperature all the way through.

Once the wax cools and hardens eventually, the dyeing procedure may then begin. This is done by putting the textile in the dye, with lighter color used initially before moving on to darker ones. If immersed for extended periods of time, the resulting color is intensified. The process carries on right until the specific color and desired intensity is achieved. Once this is done, the wax must be removed somehow. This can be done by using a hot iron.

Tips For Working With Batik Fabrics

Batik is an Indonesian-Malay word that refers to traditional wax-resist dye method used on cloth. Batik is a traditional fashionable apparel worn across the world. With a huge variety of Batik designs and patterns, it is often loved and worn by people all over the globe especially in Malaysia. Batik depicts the ancient Javanese art and tradition and has become the most desirable pattern in the urban market too. You will find a great range in the men and the women clothing. Batik apparels are evergreen and suit all the genres at any occasion.

The quality of Batik differs in the quality of cloth used. Batik silk are the highly used in parties or formal functions that can be accessorized with Batik sandals, Batik silk handbags or purses, Batik silk scarves etc. Batik designs on cotton have set a new drive among the general public. There is a huge range of designs and colors available in cotton fabric have become highly popular. Cotton Batik is generally used for casual or daily wear in almost all the parts of the world. You are not only amazed to see a huge collection of Batik prints and designs in variable colors but you can also see a number of accessories that complement the apparel. Cotton or silk scarves, sarongs, kurtis, ladies tops, Batik handbags, Batik Kebaya, Batik pants, sleep dresses etc. are widely used by a lot of customers.

The modern and the fashionable industry has readily accepted the traditional designs and patterns of Batik and has manufactured a variety of sarongs, scarves, jackets, dresses and accessories to satisfy the new generation. Batik dresses are worn for many occasions like:

1. Informal dresses are worn as daily wear casual dresses and are available in a wide variety.

2. Formal Occasions like parties, banquets, receptions, formal gatherings etc. where the guests are requested to wear Batik. Full sleeves Batik shirt for men and 'kain batik', a long batik to wrap the whole body is a formal dress worn by women.

3. Traditional occasions like wedding ceremonies, or special ceremonies in royal families where the bride and the bridegroom wear similar Batik motif called Sidomukti, meaning happiness and prosperity throughout their lives. Same Batik motif represents togetherness. Batik with Truntum is worn by parents of the bride and the bridegroom and represents their guidance to the new couple who enter the new life together.

4. Traditional dresses are worn by women in Yogya and Solo court families and consists Jarit or Tapih or Singanj is a long Batik covering the whole body with a stagen, a low waist band, Kebaya is a full sleeves shirt made of silk, Selendang is a beautiful piece of cloth that truly complements the traditional batik attire, lastly the Kemben or Semekan worn for special ceremonies in palaces or ceremonies in royal families where Kemben is worn instead of Kebaya.

5. The Traditional dress of men include Jarit or Bebed is men kain panjang fastened with stagen, Surjan which is a long sleeved shirt without the batik fabric, Beskap is worn instead of Surjan and the fabric is not Batik, Blangkon is a headgear made from Batik and lastly Keris is a dagger that is worn on the backside of the waist, acts as a compliment to the traditional dress. Dodot is a traditional dress worn by the king himself that covers the lower body.

With such a huge collection of traditional Batik dresses which depict the tradition of the past is indeed a pleasure to experience.

Batik Industry Embraces Modernization

No trip to Malaysia is complete without a visit to the Batik Factories and breaking your head over what to buy from the resplendent array of batik work products. Batik is an art practiced in many countries in Asia where wax is used to draw a design on cloth; the fabric is dyed in various bright colors that are not absorbed by the wax filled designs alone. Later this wax is removed using a solvent or by ironing it out. But this is not all! There's much more to this art that makes it a national art of Malaysia. Batik has a timeless appeal; Batik Sarongs were a much loved attire of Malays and people from various other parts of the world and even now, Batik has a magnetic presence that draws tourists and locals to its hold.

Modern day Batik is all about innovation! It moves out of the traditional Batik printing methods to experiment on various surfaces such as silk, cotton, wool, leather, paper and even wood. The products made out of these innovations are also varied and not just restricted to apparel. Charming ethnic accessories are created using these new techniques that have a high demand from locals and tourists alike. Modern styles of batik are also more of a mix of various art forms such as painting, etching, blocks, use of stencils and various other tools for discharge of wax. This has resulted in a breakout from the traditional block designs to a more diverse range of prints.

The Batik industry is Malaysia has been given a further impetus to experiment with new trends by the Malaysian Government in its effort to promote Batik as a national art form. When tradition and innovation blend together, the result is astounding and that's the case with batik too. Now, you can find batik featuring in fashion shows and on the shelves of most high end designer wear outlets. All state functions give important to batik; important dignitaries and foreign visitors wear batik to respect the tradition of the country.

The latest Batik news is its adaptability to various different materials that make it a wonderful tool for creativity. The past few years have seen a revolution in use of batiks in apparel, accessories, furniture covers, stationary, footwear and lots of other consumer products. A lot of artists have become famous because of their involvement in this thriving batik industry. There are now online classes for batik making techniques and tips on working with batik. Check out batik blogs to see the latest designs in batik and to learn how innovatively this art is used

Two technique of batik are practiced in Malaysia, the hand crafted Batik and block-printed batik. In spite of technological improvements in Batik work, hand-drawn Batik retains its share of market and is valued for its exquisiteness. Handcrafted Batik products are more expensive than block printed products because of the time and effort spent in making each piece. But the resulting product is well worth the cost. So next time you visit Malaysia, make sure you have plenty of space in your luggage to bring back wonderful batik souvenirs to cherish.

Batik Making Process

Batik is a traditional process that uses wax-resist technique in its making. Wax resist methods prevents the dye from spreading to the entire cloth, ultimately creating beautiful batik designs and patterns. The cloth used for Batik can either be cotton or silk as it can quickly absorb the wax used in dye resisting procedure. The fabric must be densely woven and should be of high quality so that the intricate patterns are reflected in the Batik quality designs.

The cloth used for Batik is initially washed and boiled in plain water for a number of times before the wax is applied. It is done so to remove all the traces of starch, lime, chalk or other chemicals are completed washed away from the cloth. The traditional method of creating Batik was that the cloth was crushed with wooden mallet or ironed so that it becomes smooth and flexible and this helped to make best designs and Batik patterns. But now, the machine made cloth is smooth and supple enough to omit the pounding or the ironing process. Generally this system was adopted in the Batik making process.

The best quality of cloth used to make Batik designs include Primissima and Prima, and the quality of the cloth is also mentioned on the edge of the pattern. Blaco is often used for Batik which is a lesser quality cloth.

Design equipments

Though Batik designs and patterns may be intricate, but the Batik design tools are quite simple. Canting, the wax pen is a pure Javanese invention, is a thin walled small copper container with a spout having a short handle made of bamboo. Its length is about 11 cm and is filled with melted wax and with the help of canting artisans creates beautiful designs on the cloth. The spouts are of various sizes which help to create different design effects. For a fine and detailed art, a spout with diameter 1mm is used and to fill in the larger designs wider spouts are used. A canting with 9 spouts is used to draw dots or parallel lines. A clump of cotton is tied over the mouth of the canting or may attach it to a stick and this acts as a brush to fill up very large sections.

Once a pattern or a design is drawn on the cloth, it is ready to be waxed. To maintain the original color (white or cream) of the cloth, the artisans apply wax with the help of the canting. The fabric is wrapped over bamboo frames for the wax to cool which later on becomes hard. The wax is melted to attain the desired consistency in the wajan in which the artisan dip the chanting and fill it with melted wax. For a well defined batik, wax is applied on both sides of the fabric.

After the application of the wax, the fabric needs to be dyed for the first time. Initially, earthenware tubs were used for dying but now large concrete vats are used. The fabric is draped on the ropes with pulleys and immersed in a dye tub. For a darker color the cloth must remain in the dye for a longer period after which it is put in cold water to make the wax harder. After the cloth is dyed properly for the first time, the artisans apply wax to the areas where the first dye color is to be maintained. Now the area that was waxed initially needs to be cleaned by removing the wax with a small knife, dabbed with hot water and then resized, so that it can be dyed in similar manner with a subsequent dye tub. You can even give a marble effect by cracking the wax so that the dye enters into the cracks before it is put for dye bath.

Lastly, you need to wash the traditionally dyed Batiks with soap and water or lerak fruit which is available in traditional markets. Always dry the Batiks in shade and not under direct sunlight.

Fabric Painting - A Unique Form of Painting

Fabric painting is a unique form of painting that finds vibrant expression on the fabrics. Painting on fabrics has now become a popular homemade handcraft and is practiced by many whether as a hobby or as a part of livelihood. With simple techniques and procedures alluring paintings can be carved out in an affordable cost. It is due to these reasons fabric painting has a demanding market nowadays. Here we are from ethnicpaintings to furnish interesting information on fabric painting and display some lovely paintings of this genre.

Fabric painting is used in vogue in men shirts, ladies kurties, hand bangs, cushion covers, curtains, upholsteries, wall hangings and more. You need not have to be very adept in painting to become a fabric painter. What you require are some creative skills and sound knowledge on the various methods of fabric paintings. The rest happens automatically.

Fabric painting is all about mixing colors and applying heat in proportions. The work of a fabric painter is like that of a chemist mixing colors and perceiving the reactions. The fun lies in the fact that he or she should know what amount of color and heat to use in order to create a particular form of fabric painting. The most popular forms of fabric paintings are batik painting, dyeing, shibori, silk-screening, watercolor painting and layering.

Dyeing is one of the most common and simple forms of fabric painting. In dyeing some parts of a fabric are tied and merged into colored dye solutions while some other parts are abstained from dyeing. When folded in a particular shape, this helps to form a design integrating the colored and the uncolored segments. Batik Painting made by blending wax and dye is one of the most favored among the fabric paintings. Having its origin in the Indonesian island of Java, batik painting mesmerizes with its unusual tapestry, ensemble of colors and freedom of art. In Batik painting first the fabric is waxed, then dyed and finally de-waxed. Shibori is a typical Japanese tie-dye painting that lures with its creases, pleats, stitches, loops and colorful motifs. This type of painting is a bit complex and involves a series of processes like stitching, folding, creasing, dyeing, pleating and embroidering.

Ancient Art Of Batik In The Modern World

With the recent economic "waking up" of global emerging markets, it would only be logical that other social segments of such markets would enjoy a revival of sort as well, and art forms of many kinds are no exception to this new found revival.

An artist from such an emerging market is Rita and she creates within an art form which is some 2000 years old and has been practiced in our western hemisphere only sparingly, partially due to its complexity, very time consuming and hot, messy application during the process of creating this art. Most everyone is familiar with this art when associated with linen and clothing, but less knowledgeable as to hanging wall art and framed work.

The art form I am referring to is BATIK. The art of Batik has several styles and forms and in accordance to global regions of their origin. There is the Chinese Batik, African Batik, Ukraine Batik and Batik styles from the Americas and the Caribbean Island. All have the same basis and use the same or similar materials in connection with this art, but it's the application process and its higher complexity of such application, which differs the regional labeling. The most detailed and resolution wise (at least in my humble opinion) the most beautiful Batik art form, is the not yet mentioned Java Batik, the form of Batik Art which I create and have been for some 30 years. The extra efforts, details and time consumption applied to this style of Batik Art is indisputably recognized by its final outcome of colors so vibrant and details of work so prevalent, the viewer could easily see it as "alive" if not at least visually most penetrating.

Perhaps this would be the right moment to describe this elusive art form and its method of application, and from experiences on the art show circle, I have encountered that even judges in juried competition have very limited knowledge as to the methods applied and efforts behind this form of art. However, whenever I'd invite such judges into my booth and made a presentation as to the creation of Batik Art, I did end up with an award for my art work. I believe creating art is more than just the outcome of such creation but some emphasizes should be given as to how the artist is getting there.

The word "batik" is roughly translated as "wax painting". As an art painter takes his brush of colors to create, a batik artist draws with the wax as to protect area from a certain color during the dye dip process. Batik is done on either silk or cotton, although the Java style of batik is mostly on cotton. Cotton, with its smooth and tight texture translates into higher resolution than the much looser and lighter silk fabric. Due to the process and method of batik, an authentic batik can be viewed on either side of the fabric, thus many batik arts are mounted between glass and matted as to show both sides, thus Two Arts in One.

The batik artist, after the original pencil drawing onto the fabric, be it cotton or silk, uses a "canting' tool to trace in details what the pencil drawing shows. The "canting" tool (imagine a small handheld funnel) is filled with a certain mixture of wax (Bee/Paraffin) and kept at a certain temperature as to keep it in liquid form, but still pasty. This wax will be applied to the fabric and its proper temperature will allow it to penetrate the fabric. The wax, upon drying will seal the fabric beneath it, just like a cocoon. The artist having covered all area of the Batik with wax BUT with EXCEPTION for area to which a chosen color will be allowed, will actually dip the fabric with the applied wax and all, into the color dye chosen for the area not covered with the protective wax. In most cases the artist would start with the lighter colors. After this several minute of Dye bath, the fabric is pulled and hung to drip and dry. Once the just applied color is totally dry, the artist will boil the fabric as to remove the wax entirely from the fabric. By the way, the removed wax is subsequently scooped up from the water, as it floats, and recycled into further use. The second step is to repeat the first step and so forth and for each layer of color designated for the Batik in creation. During the washing cycle of the dyed fabric a secret solution of salt and other chemical in a cold bath is applied as well during each process. This method of secrecy brings out the vibrancy of the colors.

In review and analyzing of the above description of the process to create such art work, one can quickly understand the complexity, pain striking details as well as the rather hot and uncomfortable environment the artist exposes him/herself to. The clean up process has its own challenges as well, of course.

An authentic batik is always and only an original, as the working with liquid wax on fabric will NEVER leave the exact duplicate like a print would, even if the design of the art is repeated on a second batik. The logic there should be obvious.

Although the above description of the method and process to create Batik Art, it was kept very simple, as the actual complexity is heighten by the artist knowledge of mixing dyes to achieve certain special colors, as well as crackling effect in certain batik pieces and how it is achieved by the artist. A more in-depth presentation can only be given when Batik sample is shown in association thereto.

TEXTILE POSTCARD CHALLENGE

During the month of April members of the Monday Club have being involved in a textile postcard challenge. Each finished postcard has been created by three members. Stage one was to produce a 6x4 inch base for the postcard. Most of us already had samples of techniques tried out at workshops and we ended up with a wide range of media from marbling, painted bondaweb and silk paintings to applique. The next stage was to pass this first stage on and receive a second that you had to alter, embroider or embellish. We were able to utilise all the techniques that we have experienced at workshops!!!!!!!!!! When this was completed we then passed the postcards on again for their final touches and finishing off.

top- string shadows on silk base, squared off lines in gutta, diagonal lines in appliglue and angelina applique, finished off with random free machine embroidery.

bottom - painted bondaweb base, painted black skeleton flower heads finished off with wool rovings flower heads, applique leaves and dragonfly motifs.






















The first stages above are from left to right


Part of a silk painting that failed


Wet in wet silk painting


Marbling on paper




















The same three bases after completion.

Lace and painted 'snowdrops' have been added. Applique leaves at the base

Dried flowers, couching, gold paint and embroidery complete this floral interpretation

Machine embroidery, angelina and organza have been embellished with beads and appliglue






















Marbled silk crepe

Painted bondaweb on silk satin

Part of silk painting, spot the face!





















A commercial stamp using gold ink. (anyone know what it means?) finished off with black beads

Fabric applique at base with silk and metallic shapes and beads to represent a tall summer flower

Knitted metal hair, black outlined features and embroidery around the edge finish off this striking face.


As you can see the results surpassed our initial expectations. The interpretation of each base varied dramatically and we were impressed that so many techniques had been applied.




































The experience of the challenge has encouraged us to have another go but later in the year